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Before buying your Thai Boxing equipment and shorts
by Scott Mallon, www.thaiboxinggear.com
For more information on Scott Mallon and ThaiBoxingGear.com
( please click on the above banner.)
Equipment, shorts and accessories are vital for assisting and providing comfort while training and fighting. Most importantly though, safety is paramount. Cheap and poorly made equipment (from Pakistan for instance) is a waste of money and can do more harm than good. It’s better to spend a little more and get quality equipment than sacrifice your own safety.
This month we’ll go over what to look for when buying Muay Thai shorts, hand wraps and boxing gloves.
Shorts
When buying shorts, there are a few things to consider. Most shorts made in Thailand are sized according to waist size in inches. As the waistband of shorts are made using an elastic material, the size range tends to be less specific than other apparel. When in doubt of your size, buy one size larger. It’s better to have shorts that are too large and be able to kick in them than shorts that are too small and leave you exposed or with a pair of ripped shorts
There are several different types of materials Muay Thai shorts are made from and some materials serve different purposes than others.
Nylon – A good, durable material that can be used daily for training. Nylon can be washed by hand in a matter of minutes and dries rapidly.
Satin – The second most used material is ok for daily use however it is better suited for occasional use in training and for fights. Satin tends to hold water which makes the shorts heavier.
Cotton Tinsel – This flashy, cotton material is best suited for use in fights or once in a great while during training. Basically you have pieces of cotton with tinsel (like Christmas tree tinsel) sewn into the fabric. This textile tends to itch so spend a little more money and have a nylon liner sewn inside.
Velvet – Typically used to simulate animal skins. For instance, the hide of a tiger or cow. Very heavy and not to be used on a regular basis.
Polyeurethane – Known as PU, this material is used to replicate leather and snakeskin. Another material that is only to be used on rare occasions.
Hand Wraps
"A basic guide to wrapping the hands."
There are essentially three types of hand wraps. There is the heavy-duty cotton wrap, the stretchy elastic wrap and the gauze-like wraps. While ultimately a matter of choice, each type of wrap has it’s own pluses and minuses. Cotton wraps are extremely durable however stiff and bulky. Gauze-like wraps are inexpensive and light however break down fairly easily. They normally do not last very long. Elastic wraps form to the hand best of all but are less resilient than cotton wraps.
Wrapping of the hands is an art form in itself. It pays to learn how to wrap your own hands as most people do not have the luxury of having someone doing it for them. There is basically one rule to remember; fingers must be separated to allow freedom of movement. Wrapping to tight can cause numbness in the hands and is the most common mistake when wrapping the hands. The wraps should be smooth, flat and evenly distributed.
Boxing Gloves
"Twins and Thaismai gloves side by side. Note a few differences. First, if you look at the difference in the edges of the strap that closes the gloves, you can see there is piping on the Twins gloves and no piping on the Thaismai gloves. Second, the brand labels are made differently. Twins embroiders their labels while Thaismai sub laminates theirs. It is hard to see in this photo although if you look at the silk screened image on the gloves you can see that the Twins finish is smoother than the Thaismai gloves."
When purchasing gloves you need to check the fit, the type of closure, the leather and stitching. Correctly fitted gloves should be snug but comfortable. Remember to take into consideration the type of hand wrap you use. If you use bulky, cotton hand wraps you will need more room than if using an elastic pair of hand wraps. If you are purchasing gloves for sparring you can’t go wrong with a pair of Velcro closure, 16 OZ. gloves. Elastic closure gloves are also a good choice however with constant use the closure may tend to get stretched out. If you do want to buy lace-up gloves, cut the tips of and wrap them with tape.
The leather that comprises a good pair of gloves should have an even finish and when pushed on will still remain fairly smooth. If you put droplets of water on the glove the leather should not change colors and the water should not settle into the leather and disappear. The water should either roll off or stay on top of the leather. Rough leather can cause abrasions more easily and is coarse because the leather has not been “treated” (finished) as well. If you get the chance, set down four or five different brands of gloves (or any other leather equipment) and compare the finish of the leather. More than likely you will be able to easily spot the differences.
There should always be “piping” around any portion of leather that would otherwise be uncovered. This for example would be on the edge of a Velcro strap. Piping not only looks better but helps prevents cuts. Make certain to check the stitching of the gloves (or any other equipment) as this is a point of wear and tear and usually the first place that falls apart.
Summing it up:
Shorts - buy shorts according to your waist size in inches. Buy a size larger if you are not sure about your size. Nylon and satin are the most common materials however satin tends to hold water and get heavy.
Hand wraps – Do you like a thin and stretchy wrap (elastic), a light, cheap wrap you can throw away or a thick heavy-duty wrap (cotton) that provides extra protection?
Boxing Gloves - check the fit, the type of closure, the quality of leather and stitching.
Next Month's feature will be Mouthpiece, headgear and shin guards.
* Article by Scott Mallon, www.thaiboxinggear.com.
* Back to This Issue's Frontpage
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